London in the Summertime

“The California animal is a bear
Angeleno, but the devil may care
Summer time to talk and swear
Later maybe we could share some air
I’ll take you to the movies there
We could walk through Leicester Square
What could be wetter than
An English girl American man.”

— The Red Hot Chili Peppers

Whilst traveling on the River Thames, I said to Clyde "Let's look for dames."

"Very well," said he, "but it's called Thames."

"Alright," said I, "we'll look for femmes."

-Ogden Nash

The English are famous for many things, including The Beatles, afternoon tea, the royal family, but, above all, their rain. Although G.K. Chesterton lauded the English climate, saying: “I will praise the English climate till I die—even if I die of the English climate”, frequent deluges aren’t exactly welcomed on a city-break. So, if you are planning a long weekend jaunt to London, there’s no better time than summertime.

Once home to Karl Marx, Charles Darwin, Sylvia Plath, Jimi Hendrix, Mozart, and Richard Burton, England’s capital is steeped in a vast and divergent history with many a tale to tell. Few cosmopolitan cities can boast of such an array of iconic architecture, ranging from the instantly recognizable Big Ben, the Tower of London, and the Houses of Parliament to the innovative architectural styles of the Shard, the Tate Modern, and the London Eye. And the best way to enjoy such a plethora of structural heritage is to get immersed into the city, spending as much time wandering the higgledy-piggledy streets like a local. As the skyline of this vibrant and vivacious city is ever-changing, the time to enjoy it is definitely when the sun is shining.

To avoid reverting back to a bulky and outdated guidebook, here are some quirky and unique ways to see London in the summer.

Enjoy a spot of summer sun alongside Shoreditch's canals...

...or perhaps a jaunt with a friend

Getting Around

London is a large and busy city, so planning your routes is vital. One fun and unusual way to buzz around is in one of smallcarBIGCITY’s Mini Coopers: they allow you to nip through the hustle and bustle of the capital while absorbing the panoramic view from this adorable little car – an experience you can’t enjoy on the underground.

Alternatively, you can opt for London’s own transport. One of London’s iconic black cabs can take you wherever you wish to go. The drivers of these cabs all have a complete knowledge of every route and landmark in London - hence the name, “The Knowledge”, for the grueling geographical test they have to pass.  

There is also a fleet of big, red buses that take to the street (including ones specifically for tourists), on which you get a great view of the sights from the top deck.

Hidden Treasures

Markets & Arcades

It is no secret that London is host to some of the finest and quirkiest retail experiences – the secret is knowing where to find them! With a myriad of hidden markets and arcades dotted all over London, all your shopping demands will be more than satisfied.

You can’t visit London without taking a stroll down one of the most British streets in London, Cecil Court.  This eccentric pedestrian half-block with its used book stores, toy shops, and hobby shops is perfect for presents and gift shopping and specializes in traditional English-ness.

London’s arcades often have narrow and discreet entrances, so you have to have a keen eye to spot them, but they are one of the weird and wonderful characteristics of London life. One of the oldest and most famous arcades is Burlington Arcade, which opened in 1819. The trouble with some of these arcades, however, is that they are positioned in spaces that demand some of the highest rents in the world, so they aren’t exactly cheap - but well worth a visit!

A Cecil Court Shopkeeper

S

Pubs

Should you find yourself parched or in need of some sustenance, you are never far from a good old English pub where you’ll find some of the finest ale and best fish and chips you could ask for. Like so many buildings in London, each pub has an interesting and unique past.

The Shakespeare’s Head, on Carnaby Street, was built in 1735 and was originally owned by Thomas and John Shakespeare, who were distant relatives of the great dramatist himself.

The George Inn, in Southwark, was built in 1677 and glories at being the only remaining galleried inn in London. The George can also claim to nineteenth-century fame through having Charles Dickens as a regular patron when the inn was a coffee house.

Escape from the Hustle and Bustle - Manchester

If the energetic London life gets too much, you can always hop on a cross-country train at Euston and head up to Manchester for a mini getaway.

The city is a refreshing blend of old and new, undiscovered and inexpensive. The pace of life is much more relaxed than in the capital, so you can still enjoy urban life without feeling rushed off your feet.

There are plenty of shopping opportunities with large department stores and high street chains, along with great cultural activities and excursions, in the form of museums, galleries, football clubs, and a private library. The John Rylands Library is open to everyone, in which you can research their collection of ancient manuscripts – you just need to book an appointment.

Be sure to get a Blue Badge Guide - it’s an official tour agency in England and the guides have excellent training in history and culture. These guides can be easily arranged either through me or through your hotel.

Maury’s Checklist for London in the Summertime

1.     The amount of transport options available to you in London means that you don’t have to spend months in advance planning and preparing your visit.

2.     The iconic landmarks and tourist sites are easily accessible and well-known, but choosing the best pubs, shopping experiences, markets, and alike require insider-knowledge and some forethought, so familiarize yourself with their locations and plan your day accordingly to make the most out of your visit.

3.     Some of the best places in London are discovered by getting lost and there’s nothing like wandering through the side-streets of London on a summer’s day (you definitely won’t fancy it in the winter!). So, take advantage of the amazing weather and get lost in this marvelous city and see what hidden treasures you stumble across!  

Shepherd Market, in Mayfair, is an experience in itself simply because it is a little-known gem to locals and tourists alike - and understandably so, given how understated the entrance is. This hidden treasure is the definition of cultured chic, specializing in hotels, pubs, rare books (from Maggs Bros Ltd), art galleries, and Simon Carter Menswear.

Markets are another prominent feature of London life. There’s Spitalfields Market, which sells everything from food and drink to cosmetics and bicycles. Borough Market offers a more nuanced range of produce, specializing solely in British and international foods - it was also where Bridget Jones’s Diaries was filmed. Amongst the best markets is also Piccadilly Market, which is great for belts, bags, all things leather and jewelry.

 

Pubs in Summertime can take up an entire sidewalk

Manchester is often more relaxed than London...

...but still very social!

Enjoy London's favorite tourist sites...

...but don't be afraid to wander off the beaten path!

Venice!

“If I were not King of France, I would choose to be a citizen of Venice.”

-Henry III, 1574

“Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.”

-Truman Capote, 1961

Venice’s canals and palaces are so beautiful that they just about created the entire idea of traveling for pleasure, rather than trade or conquest. Before Venice was a playground for, Lord Byron, Mark Twain and Kim Kardashian, it lured young English noblemen on their “Grand Tour” of Europe. While Paris’s salons instructed the sons of Albion how to behave in court and Rome’s ruins left them with visions of empire, it was Venice that taught them to love beauty and passion.

If you’re ready for a personal renaissance, let’s start planning your trip to Venice. Before you pick from the myriad of non-stop or low-cost flight options, here’s a guide to travelling in the world’s first tourist destination without being a tourist.

The Must-See’s

The canals are Venice’s sine qua non. Plenty of gondolas and gondoliers ply the Canal Grande and the smaller waterways, but their passengers are largely tourists enjoying the theater of a gondola ride. Locals ride a dense network of ferries and water taxis, but most of all they walk. With almost no cars on its tangled web of streets, Venice is a walker’s paradise, with treasures to be found around every turn.

Napoleon called St. Mark’s Square “the drawing room of Europe.” To Venetians, it’s just la Piazza (the square). The physical and spiritual center of the city, St. Marks should be treated as a starting point for exploring Venice. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds, then do your best to get lost in the city. When the restaurants stop displaying English-language menus, you’ll know you’re in the right place.

Venice rewards both the night owl and the early bird. If either of these suit your flights of fancy, make your way to the Rialto Bridge. At 7:30 in the morning, you’ll find dozens of stalls of fresh produce, fish and other delights, open for the locals before the tourist rush.

It will require an advance reservation and a private tour, but the Peggy Guggenheim collection is one of the best contemporary art collections in the world. If this is on your radar, let me know before your trip.

Day Trips:

It’s easy to get lost in Venice for a week or more, but if you long for open skies, open roads or just solid rock beneath your feet, you’ll want to discover the cities, small towns and islands near Venice. It’s easy to reach the major destinations from Venice’s train station, but if you really want to explore wine country, you’ll need to rent a set of wheels. In Italy, you have a choice - two wheels, or four. Italians love their cars and their Vespas. If you’re only doing a daytrip with minimal luggage, don’t pass up the opportunity to drive a vintage ragtop roadster. Whether you’re behind a wheel or a set of handlebars, you’ll need a certain confidence to contend with Italy’s drivers. Just because they seem fearless doesn’t mean you should be.

Verona:

Much older than Venice, Verona integrates Roman ruins into the fabric of the city itself. Although very popular with locals, Verona doesn’t attract too many international tourists, so it’s an excellent opportunity to understand Italy on its own terms. It’s also a great jumping off point for Wine Country. If you’re nervous about driving (see above), try renting a bicycle or e-bike.

Murano Island:

If you love Venice’s intricate glassworks, you’ll want to budget time for a trip to Murano Island. A short water taxi ride away from the Grand Canal, Murano Island is home to Venice’s glassblowing industry. You can watch artisans create these extraordinary sculptures, and perhaps even commission one yourself.  

Cinque Terre:

For an overnight or weekend trip, Cinque Terre (Five Towns) on Italy’s Western Coast provide a gentle respite from Venice. Dotting the picturesque Mediterranean coast, the towns are more easily accessed from the water than the land. Each one provides a base for La Dolce Vita, a chance to slow down and enjoy fresh food, swims at the city beaches, hiking in the mountains. Each individual town has its specialty, so be sure to pick the right one.

Maury’s Rules for avoiding sticking out as a tourist in Italy

1. Pick up a few Italian phrases. Un poco goes a long way, and people appreciate the effort.

2. Dress well. You don’t need to live up to complete Italian standards, but a button down, slacks and loafers can be just as comfortable as a ratty t-shirt, cargo shorts and flip-flops. You’ll be welcomed at many more establishments, and find yourself striking up many more conversations.

3. Get lost. And when you’re lost, try to get a bit more lost. The further away you get from hearing English, the better. Finding your way back will give you most of your fun.

How Venice Locals Travel...

…by private boat

…Water Taxi

...Ferry

…and sometimes on a Gondola

Roadster or Vespa

The best way to travel in Italy is with a friend!

Rome's Coliseum may draw the tourists and dress-up gladiators, but Verona's Arena is still an active cultural attraction, hosting Opera performances throughout the summer.

Cinque Terre

Land of La Dolce Vita

At the Peggy Guggenheim Museum - The tour guide may be from Staten Island, but he's mastered the art of how to dress in effortless chic Italy (see Maury's Rules for avoiding sticking out as a tourist in Italy)

Pacific Escapes

Dana Point, CA

Much have I travell'd in the realms of gold, / And many goodly states and kingdoms seen; / Round many western islands have I been / Which bards in fealty to Apollo hold. / Oft of one wide expanse had I been told / That deep-brow'd Homer ruled as his demesne; / Yet did I never breathe its pure serene / Till I heard Chapman speak out loud and bold: / Then felt I like some watcher of the skies / When a new planet swims into his ken; / Or like stout Cortez when with eagle eyes / He star'd at the Pacific—and all his men / Look'd at each other with a wild surmise - / Silent, upon a peak in Darien.

-John Keats

You’ll have to give John a little poetic license. It was the Spanish explorer and conquistador Vasco Nunez de Balboa who became the first European to lay eyes on America’s Pacific shoreline, not Cortez. But it’s easy to imagine the wild attraction the serene waters must have held for the weary band of gold-seekers as they trudged across the mountains that run along the Pacific’s shore from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego.

Our lives tethered to computers and smartphones might not have the risk and terror of Balboa’s march across the continent, but they leave us searching for calm and salvation all the same. Luckily, we don’t have to surmount uncharted mountains to reach the Pacific Ocean’s most gorgeous beaches. Unless we want to find ourselves with a body-testing hike, a la Cheryl Strayed, all we have to do is book a flight to LAX.

Pacific Escapes

It's time to live your beach life

The ocean itself is much the same throughout Southern California. But each beach has a character all its own. Finding the right one for your purposes can make the difference between taking a comfortable trip and struggling to find the peace and escape you packed your bags for in the first place. So let’s talk about making your way to some of the best golden sands in the Golden State.

Getting There

Los Angeles is famous for many wonderful things, but traffic-free highways are not one of them. If you’re traveling during rush hour in prime holiday seasons, making your way to or from the airport through the city can take several hours. Plan your visiting hours accordingly.

Suit up at Venice Beach

Once you’ve left the city, you’re never too far away from the waves. But before you dive in, no matter where you choose to do so, consider one general note. The sun always seems to shine over California, but the Pacific Ocean isn’t necessarily always warm. Take some time to tan, but before you hit the waves, strap on a wetsuit. Not only will you look like you belong, but you’ll thank yourself for the extra warmth.

For Relaxation - Dana Point

If relaxation is you're goal, make your first stop in laid back Dana Point. You can’t go wrong with the five-star Laguna Niguel Ritz Carlton. If you’re simply looking for a warm bed after a day of surfing, you’ll have it. But they can accommodate you and your companions for all sorts of purposes. Honeymoons, multi-generational gatherings, weddings, bar mitzvahs, and more – it all happens here in high style.

Walk right out the front door and you’ll have access to museums, shopping, and excellent restaurants accessible via a comfortable stroll. (And, of course, we’re in California - beach volleyball is never too far away). But with such development comes other tourists, too, so keep that in mind especially during holidays.

If you’d like to stretch your wings a bit further, consider traveling further south to find Laguna Beach’s Top of the World Hike. The drive to and from your point of origin is worth it in and of itself. But once you’re out of the car and on your feet, you’ll discover why you really came: pristine views of Laguna city, the beach, and snow-capped mountains all in one place. California has it all.

And if you’re looking for bit more busy, Hop back in the car, travel just a bit further south, and you’ll find yourself in a lovely boating community at Dana Point. If you want to feel the Pacific waves but still stay dry, this is the place to do it. Hop on a paddleboard to travel from one boat to another, taking in a way of life that screams California. You can find common attractions such as fishing and watersports, but this is one of the only places where you can do all of that then turn in for a comfortable night without ever having to step foot on shore.

For excitement - Venice

Maybe you've got a little too relaxed on the beach. Or maybe your idea of relaxation is wild parties with wild people. Either way, it's time to come to Venice. 

Of course, there's a wonderful sandy beach with a long boardwalk lined with off-beat stores, street art, head shops and folks who are either street performers or independent-minded locals (it can be hard to tell which). But behind the beach the the neighborhood GQ calls "the coolest block in America." Although long-time residents gripe about the gentrification ("I would not pay $9 to park in order to buy a $5 cup of coffee." griped a writer for the LA Times.), it's still one of the best shopping and culture destinations to be found anywhere in the world. 

We’ve only just begun to discuss a few of the seemingly endless worthy destinations in California. No matter what you’re looking for, we can help you find it, access it, and do what you really wanted to do - leave everything else behind.

Palm Springs - Where the Desert Forged Cool

“An increasingly pagan and hedonistic people (thank God!), we are learning finally that desert canyons are holier than our churches. Therefore let us behave accordingly. Benedicto: May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view."

-Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire

Palm Springs

Where the Desert Forged Cool

Any big city worth its salt will have a small stable of travel writers to tell you how unique and authentic it is. And you can find thousands of sunset pictures from pretty much all of the world’s beaches on Instagram. But the desert is still a place for the weird ones. The burned-out hippie and the proto-hipster can all be found here, following the paths of the saints and sinners who found themselves out in the desert wilderness. The desert gives you the freedom to be yourself, and, in the process to discover what makes you who you are. The desert heat forges cool.  

Palm Springs, located in the Southern California desert, about 2 hours east from Los Angeles, epitomizes the desert’s acceptance-chic. The town first made its bones attracting silent-era film stars who wanted to hold parties so wild that they couldn’t be contained by LA. From the 1930s to the 1960s, new residents built dozens of homes that pioneered Mid-Century Modern style. After the Rat Pack came and went, Palm Springs became one of the first towns in the US to embrace its LGBTQ+ citizens and visitors. And in 2018, the city elected the first all-LGBTQ city council in the United States.

Much of the desert doesn’t need a guidebook - it’s just there, for you to explore as you see fit. But Palm Springs offers a few curated delights that first-time or even fifth-time visitors should make sure to see. But first, a note of caution - like the ocean, the desert remains a wild place. Although most visitors stay perfectly safe, it’s important to prepare yourself. Carry and use more water and sunscreen than you think you will need. Wear lightweight, long-sleeve pants to protect your legs from cactus burrs if you’re hiking. Alcohol often feels stronger, and comes on quicker, in the dry air, so pace yourself accordingly. Don’t assume that your cell phone will work everywhere. The desert means freedom, and freedom must entail some risk.

Arts and Architecture - Ultimate Cool

The desert might appear barren, but it’s home to all sorts of fascinating lifeforms and cultural figures both influential and eclectic. Raymond Loewy, the patron saint of Mid-Century American design, built his glass-enclosed bachelor pad in Palm Springs as a living embodiment of his “Most Advanced Yet Acceptable (MAYA)” theory of cool. Loewy's vision created the colors and shapes of everything from Coca-Cola bottles to locomotives to the paint scheme on Air Force One. You can visit Loewy’s home and other paragons of Mid-Century Modern design by booking a tour or visiting Palm Springs during Modernism Week in October or February.

If you want to take a break from Palm Springs’ phenomenal art museum or noted international film festival in January, you’ll find a vibrant and exciting restaurant scene. While there’s plenty of cheap grub at farmers markets, delicious storefront Mexican joints and classic American diners, you’ll want to splurge for at least one meal at a fine dining restaurant run by an expat LA chef. My favorite is Workshop, a kitchen+bar combo featuring communal dining and new American food in Palm Spring’s uptown Design district.

Relax

If you’re going to the desert to reconnect with yourself, you’ll need to spend plenty of quality time with - yourself. Start by picking the right hotel. Palm Springs offers plenty of options from small bed-and-breakfasts to fancy resorts with golf courses, tennis courts and spas. My advice is to pick a spot with a great pool, or, even better, a great pool party.

Speaking of parties, Palm Springs is one of the country’s LGBTQ+ travel destinations. Hotels fill up fast at the end of March for “The Dinah,” a five-day “girl party” and music festival and at the end of April for “The White Party,” a boisterous gay dance festival. But there are plenty of LGBTQ+ friendly attractions throughout the year, from specialized resorts to bars and art galleries.

Explore, by land or sky

Even though Palm Springs is technically a city, you’ll find it much easier to get around with a car. Even though there’s a small walkable downtown and it’s possible to get around with ridesharing apps like Uber and Lyft, you’ll need a car if you really want to get out and explore the surrounding area. If you’re used to driving in a big city or suburban sprawl, you’ll love the deserts wide-open 2-lane roads. Remember not to drive too fast, because you’ll miss the quirky roadside attractions, farmers markets and knick-knack shops.

If you’re feeling adventurous, rent an SUV or Pickup to explore the desert’s dirt backroads. Make sure you stay on well-marked roads, as most rental insurance policies won’t cover off-road driving.

If you want a true off-road experience, drive an hour South to the Warner Springs Gliderport, where the father-and-son team at Skysailing will tow you aloft in their two-person glider. Don’t worry if you’ve never flown a plane before - you can take the controls under the pilot’s supervision or relax and watch the scenery go by. Without the sound of an engine, you’ll experience the desert the way an eagle or hawk does, gliding from thermals rising off the hot desert floor.

There are plenty of opportunities for hiking around Palm Springs, but nearby Joshua Tree National Park is one of the most spectacular jewels in the National Park System. Without a single focal point like the Grand Canyon or Yosemite’s Half-Dome, Joshua Tree is less crowded and more spread out. Pretty much anywhere you go in the park you’ll find the iconic Joshua Trees, fascinating rock formations and desert wilderness.

Unfortunately, you’ll need to drive all the way around the park to get to the main entrance, which is on the North Side, in the town of Joshua Tree. There is a Jeep trail that runs directly from Palm Springs into the heart of the park, but it requires some serious off-road chops. It’s worth it to spend a day or two in the town of Joshua Tree itself, where New Age hippies and Old West cowboy types live side by side in relative harmony.

If you’re enjoying the Old West vibe, book a horseback ride at a local stable. Besides feeling like you’re in a Western, horseback rides are the best way to spot wildlife in the desert. From your vantage point eight or nine feet in the air, you’ll easily be able to spot rabbits, coyotes, snakes and birds of prey. If you’ve never ridden a horse before, make sure you go with a (human) guide.

Getting There and When to Go:

Palm Spring Airport has direct flights to most major US hubs. It’s also easy to fly into one of the LA airports and drive to Palm Springs, but try to avoid getting out of LA during rush hour! Palm Springs is known as a winter destination, with January days in the 70s. Winter and early Spring also host the most events, so hotels are often booked. Summers get exceedingly hot, with average daytime highs of 108℉ in July. Fall is an excellent time to visit, as the weather is mild, but the town isn’t yet busy.

Once you’re ready to make your escape, don’t stress out too much about your flight or your plans. Just get in touch and we’ll make everything happen.

Cape Cod and Provincetown, Massachusetts

Where the ocean, land and bay meet - an historic and beautiful part of the world that simmers in the Summer. Artistic and hedonistic and always fun and beautiful with light that constantly changes and amazes.  

Havana, Cuba

Once forbidden, it is now open to individuals who will go on tours and enjoy the rich history, the great music and the wonderful Cuban spirit, but not to mention the pleasures of the local rum and the kindness of the people. 

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Upcoming Trip - Havana, Cuba

I will be in Havana, Cuba from July 1st to July 5th. Pictures and description of trip to come.

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Morocco: May 13th - May 22nd 2016

From the Mediterranean Sea and rugged Atlantic cliffs to the Imperial Cities, the Great South Valley, the baking heat of the Sahara and the cool peaks of the Atlas Mountains, Morocco has something for everyone.

I had the wonderful experience of spending a night in the desert, the coolness of the Atlas Mountains, the exotic cities of Fes and Marrakech. The country is so rich in history and culture. The souks and medina take you back to another era. The country is enticing and sensual and the people warm and hospitable.